CIABOT BERTON

Barolo is, of course, one of Italy’s most revered wines, with prices that often reflect its prestigious reputation. Yet exceptional value can still be found by those willing to look beyond the region’s most celebrated names, and few producers illustrate this better than Ciabot Berton.

The story of Ciabot Berton dates back to 1876, when the Oberto family purchased their first vineyard. For decades they cultivated these vines, before Luigi Oberto established the family’s own winery in the late 1950s. Today, the estate is run by Marco Oberto and his wife, Federica, a qualified sommelier. Together they have quietly built one of Barolo’s best-kept secrets, seemingly content to let the wines speak for themselves rather than chasing the theatre of allocations or prestige.

The estate farms 12 hectares of vineyards, eight of which are planted with Nebbiolo, all within La Morra’s Santa Maria district. Their holdings include prime parcels in Rocchettevino and Roggeri, while the flagship 1961 Barolo is sourced from the estate’s finest vineyards, producing a superb-value wine of poise, perfume and persistence. Meanwhile, the 3Utin Nebbiolo offers a fresher, lighter expression, showcasing the vibrant red-fruited charm and elegance for which La Morra is renowned.

Over many years, Marco has steadily refined his winemaking, stripping away anything that might obscure the purity of the fruit. His philosophy is one of restraint, perfectly matched to La Morra’s naturally expressive character. As Mae West famously quipped, “You can never have too much of a good thing,” and Marco now favours a greater proportion of whole berries and whole bunches, combined with long, gentle macerations and minimal extraction. The result is Barolo that celebrates fragrance, finesse and site expression, rather than power for its own sake.

Even the winery’s name has a story. A ciabot is a humble vineyard hut, and this one once belonged to a local character known as Berton, whose enthusiasm for homemade fireworks apparently exceeded his technical ability. Legend has it he succeeded in blowing the roof clean off the building, leaving the picturesque ruins that still overlook the surrounding vines today.

Fortunately, the only explosions you’ll encounter now are the ones that happen after the cork is pulled.