DOMAINE GRACIEUX CHEVALIER

If you’re after a value French alternative to Champagne, look no further.

If Champagne has become an occasional indulgence rather than a house pour, Crémant de Bourgogne remains one of France’s best-kept open secrets. Fifty years after the creation of the appellation, its reputation continues to flourish, both in France and increasingly abroad.

Just south of Chablis, in the gently rolling hills of Deux Rivières, lies the 56-hectare estate behind Gracieux Chevalier, a marque of Veuve Ambal, the historic family-owned house that has been crafting Crémant de Bourgogne since 1898. Much of the vineyard is planted as a single continuous parcel on the famed Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone soils that have made neighbouring Chablis world-renowned. The same fossil-rich seabed that gives Chablis its distinctive character brings precision and mineral freshness here too.

The blend is unmistakably Burgundian: 40% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 25% Aligoté. All out favourite ‘ingredients’ are found here. The grapes are harvested by hand, while 20–25% reserve wines are incorporated into each release, lending consistency and an extra layer of depth without sacrificing freshness. The vines themselves are almost 30 years old and cropped well below the appellation’s requirements.

Another indication of the estate’s high standards is its aging regime. Although Gracieux Chevalier could be released after the appellation’s minimum requirement of 12 months on the lees, it instead spends between 24 and 36 months ageing in bottle before release. The additional time is not about pursuing richness, but refinement, allowing the wine to develop greater texture, finesse and complexity.

Ultimately, though, what matters is what’s in the glass. Fine, persistent bubbles carry aromas of crisp orchard fruit and preserved lemon, underpinned by delicate notes of white flowers, blush cherry and warm brioche. The palate is poised and beautifully balanced, with a chalky thread lending tension and precision before a fine, silky finish that is refreshingly crisp rather than overtly generous.

It also happens to cost a fraction of what many comparable Champagnes command. In Burgundy, that may be the greatest surprise of all. That alone is worth celebrating!

If you’re after a value French alternative to Champagne, look no further.