MARGAN

Margan was established in 1996 by Lisa and Andrew Margan in Broke, in the Hunter Valley’s subregion of Broke Fordwich. Today, second-generation winemaker Ollie Margan is helping shape the next phase of the family business, bringing a contemporary focus to vineyard expression, regenerative farming and restrained winemaking.

The estate comprises 90 hectares of vineyards across two sites, with much of the land planted on the distinctive soils of the Fordwich Sill. Margan’s core varieties remain firmly rooted in Hunter Valley tradition, including around 20 hectares each of Shiraz and Semillon and 18 hectares of Chardonnay. These are complemented by smaller plantings of Verdelho, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre and Merlot, alongside alternative varieties such as Albariño, Barbera, Tempranillo and Graciano.

A particular asset is the estate’s old-vine material. Most vineyards are planted on their own roots, while the Timbervines block carries traditional Hunter Valley clones of Semillon and Shiraz grafted onto original 60-year-old rootstocks. These old clones, selected for their long adaptation to local conditions, remain central to Margan’s approach to quality and regional character.

Since Ollie moved into a leadership role in 2021, the business has intensified its focus on regenerative viticulture, particularly at Ceres Hill, the home vineyard. Synthetic inputs have been removed, while cover crops, legumes, grazing sheep, chicken manure and biochar made from vineyard prunings are used to improve soil structure, biodiversity and water retention. The transition initially brought sharp reductions in yield, but Margan believes the resulting fruit shows thicker skins, greater concentration, stronger natural acidity and clearer differentiation between sites.

That philosophy continues in the winery under what Ollie describes as “gentle farming, gentle winemaking”. Fermentations are increasingly spontaneous, fining is reduced, and larger, older barrels and neutral vessels such as concrete are used to preserve fruit character and mid-palate texture.

Ceres Hill encapsulates the direction of the estate. Semillon and Chardonnay grow on low-fertility grey clay, Albariño on sandy loam near Wollombi Brook and Barbera on volcanic red clay behind the winery. The latter two varieties, planted in 2014 and 1998 respectively, were pioneering introductions to the Hunter.

All Margan wines are estate grown and made, with the vineyards certified as sustainably farmed. The result is an increasingly site-led portfolio that combines Hunter Valley heritage with a progressive approach to farming, varieties and wine style.