Katsunuma Jozo Winery was established by the Aruga family in 1937 in the village of Katsunuma, in the Yamanashi prefecture. The winery began as a silk yarn business housed in a 19th-century merchant’s house. Approximately 80 years ago, the founder’s grandson ventured into winemaking, marking the family’s transition into the wine industry.
Today, the winery is managed by the third generation of the Aruga family: brothers Jun, Sho, and Hirotaka.
They own 5 hectares of vines, and source from another 25ha in the local region. Over 70% of the grapes they harvest are Koshu, an indigenous Japanese grape variety that has been grown in the region for over 1,300 years.
Katsunuma Jozo is renowned for its commitment to producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of the Katsunuma region. The wines are extremely sought after in Japan, and are considered by many as one of the best producers of the Koshu variety, playing a pivotal role in showcasing Japanese wine on the international stage.
KOSHU
Boasting a rich heritage of Koshu grape production that spans more than a thousand years, Katsunuma, in Yamanashi Prefecture, is the cradle of Japanese wine.
Koshu grapes were originally brought to China from the Caucasus via the Silk Road and were then introduced to Japan by official cultural missions sent to China during the seventh and eighth centuries.
They were predominantly consumed as fresh fruit over the ensuing 1,300 years until 1877, when Masanari Takano and Ryuken Tsuchiya, two men from Yamanashi, traveled to France to study winemaking. After returning to Japan, they helped establish Japan’s first winery in Katsunuma, thus laying the foundation for the more than 80 wineries operating in Yamanashi today.Yamanashi’s climate is ideal for grape cultivation, with hot summers and cold winters, as well as well-draining, volcanic soil, making it suitable for producing high-quality grapes.
Koshu grapes are naturally a pink-skinned variety, and their color is due to the presence of anthocyanins, the same pigments that give red and purple grapes their hues. The pinkish-grey skins are part of what makes them unique, giving Koshu wine its delicate color and subtle texture.
The evolution of Koshu reflects Japan’s changing relationship with wine and its growing focus on cultivating indigenous varieties.A growing appreciation for terroir-driven wines, along with an increased interest in sustainable and local agricultural practices, has led to a resurgence of Koshu wines. As winemakers continue to experiment with and perfect the Koshu grape, it is poised to become an even more important part of the global wine scene in the coming years.
Koshu’s light and crisp profile, with flavors of citrus, white flowers, and sometimes minerality, has made it an appealing choice for wine drinkers looking for something fresh and different. In addition its an ideal match to Japanese cuisine.
Aruga Branca ‘Clareza’ Koshu 2022/2023
Alc/vol: 11.5%
Limited
100% Koshu made using only free run juice, no oak and Sur Lie fermentation, and resting on lees for around 6 months. It represents a very pure expression of unoaked Koshu.
On the nose, it exhibits apples, some white pepper/cinnamon spice and lemon. It shows a mineral complexity. Firm acid, and moderate weight, with a salty tangy finish.
Aruga Branca ‘Pipa’ Koshu 2020
Alc/vol: 9%
Limited
NEW!
The barrel-fermented Koshu style began as Katsunuma Jozo’s bold effort to elevate Koshu to world-class status. By the 2000s, international awards affirmed their vision.
Barrel-aging such a delicate grape demands precision—too much, and its subtle aromatics are lost. Through close collaboration with global experts, the winery refined its approach, achieving a style where oak enhances rather than overwhelms Koshu’s character.
The result is a wine of elegance and complexity that retains Koshu’s unique identity.
WINE GRAPES recognized Katsunuma Jozo for producing one of the most impressive barrel-fermented expressions of the variety.
Aromatic nuances of toasted butter, lemon, quince, freshly cut apple, dry grass, floral nectar, and a hint of smokiness. The palate is slender and refined, with beautifully integrated oak that complements rather than overshadows the fruit—resulting in an exquisitely balanced expression. Bright acidity, reminiscent of grapefruit and blood orange, delivers a gently bitter edge that lingers through the long, textured finish. This is a barrel-aged Koshu of remarkable elegance and precision.
Recommended Food Pairings: Raw Oysters, Stir-Fried Crown Daisy (Shungiku)
Aruga Branca ‘Issehara’ Koshu 2023
Alc/vol: 12%
Limited
NEW!
In 2000, a small but significant discovery was made at the winery. Contrary to the long-held perception of Koshu wines as modest and neutral, they identified a unique aromatic character inherent to the variety. This revelation marked a turning point: from that year onward, they refined their techniques to fully express this distinctive aroma. In 2004, they proudly released the first vintage that embodied this vision. That same year became a milestone in the international recognition of Koshu wines, as tasting notes began to reference the now-familiar “citrus aroma.” The citrus notes now commonly associated with Koshu trace back to the initial discovery—making this wine a true pioneer in shaping the global perception of Japanese Koshu.
Highly aromatic, the wine opens with notes of white peach, cassis bud, sudachi (Japanese citrus), ripe banana, and a subtle musky nuance. On the palate, the balance between concentration and acidity is finely tuned. A vivid impression of citrus, particularly grapefruit, is complemented by a delicate salinity. The umami-driven acidity enhances appetite and food compatibility. The finish is long, persistent, and textured.
Recommended Food Pairings: Miso-Marinated Black Cod, Salt-Grilled Sea Bass
ISSEHARA
The wine’s name, Issehara, refers to a specific 2-hectare area within the Kanegawabara region of Misaka-cho, located on the floodplain of the Kanegawa River in Yamanashi.
This site has a unique terroir shaped over millennia by the dynamic flow of the river. As sediment was deposited and washed away repeatedly over tens of thousands of years, the resulting soil composition became predominantly sandy gravel—an exceptionally well-draining substrate rare in Japan. This distinct soil allows the vines to accumulate more aromatic precursors, producing a wine with a markedly different style.
If you’re looking to elevate your wine selection with something fresh, nuanced, and culturally rich, Katsunuma Jozo Koshu is an excellent choice.
Please reach out to your Deja Vu area manager for more information or to arrange a tasting.