Kumeu River’s Estate Chardonnay must be one of the best value white wines in the world. In a great vintage like 2020 (and 2019) – the high quality of fruit elevates this bottling even closer to the single vineyard wines. Drawn from six vineyard sites around the Kumeu region, it is hand harvested and whole-bunch pressed ahead of spontaneous fermentation and maturation in barrel, of which 20% are new.

Michael believes this to be as good as his brilliant 2019 “but with the volume turned up a little bit”. Production was down about 25%. Bright, pale lemon in colour. The nose is quintessential Kumeu – bright lemon fruit with a little ripe peach and the classic, seductive reduction of struck flint, layered with a hint of spice from the oak.

The palate is thick, richly structured with taut acidity braced against fleshy peaches and pears. There is a crystalline, saline impression here, adding a moreish, savoury complexity. Long and expansive to the finish, this is another excellent Estate Chardonnay.